After a long week of meetings and late night business calls from the US (due to the 7 hour time difference) I was able to celebrate the Labor Day weekend with my lovely bride. After her hellish flight over, we left Frankfurt airport to make our journey to Munich.
The ride was long, and unfortunately the traffic near Stuttgart was unforgiving. We arrived in Munich just in time for a late dinner and a quick tour around the city. One of the few remaining restaurants that were open was a local Texmex haunt. The food was pretty good given that we were eating burritos in a city so distant from Mexico and Texas (and famous for bratwurst and sauerkraut). Thank goodness for the BMW GPS system, because it made our life very easy. It was able to assist us with finding monuments, getting us to restaurants, and most importantly, finding local coffee shops in the morning.
I have to say that I was not all that impressed with Munich. The history of the city is amazing, but, in my opinion, still has an eerie feeling from the Second World War. Hitler’s Third Reich started here, Hitler made his power grab here worst of all, the Dachau Concentration Camp was formed near Munch (about 18 km outside of the city). After a good night sleep and a coffee, we made the drive to Dachau.
Dachau was established in 1933 to initially hold a select group of political and anti-Nazi prisoners. It began with a prisoner population of approximately 4000 prisoners. By the end of the war, there were 30,000 prisoners being kept confined here. Barrack dorms that were meant for 250 had 1200 prisoners by the end of the war. I have never felt this way before. The spectacle of this place was grotesque. The presence of death was everywhere. We entered at the front gate, far away from the main entrance that most people take to enter the camp. It was the guard access off of the main road. Six foot concrete walls (not to limit people getting out, but to stop people from getting in), and topped with barbed wire. The towers were placed every 250’ all around the camp. The first perimeter inside the camp was a dog run. Obviously German Sheppards ran freely within the dog run to contain anyone that made it this far, next was a tall stretch of electrified barbed wire fence, and then finally, a four foot moat filled with slate and filthy water. It was obvious that there would be no escape.
The German’s made it obvious that they would use their efficiency to keep, count, and finally kill and cremate their adversaries. IBM was retained to develop the modern spread sheet in order to maintain accurate counts of the prisoners and to monitor the other forced labor and death camps.
The camp’s main entrance shows the words “Freedom Through Work” (obviously in German – Arbeit Macht Frei). The Nazi’s were masters at physical and psychological manipulation. There was never any intention to release or free prisoners, but the Nazi’s wanted the prisoners to think that they could earn their way out as it kept the prison population motivated.
We saw the Nazi torture devices, the gas chambers, and the crematorium. At the time of the U.S. Army’s liberation of Dachau, there were over 3,000 people lying dead in piles awaiting cremation. The spectacle of the atrocities committed here were so unbelievable, that when the local town’s people were confronted by the U.S. Army, they denied everything. The U.S.’s 20th Army was not buying the story, so they forced every adult in the town of Dachau to tour the camp, including bearing witness to the piles of bodies awaiting cremation. After the tours of the camp were complete, they enlisted every man in the town to bury the bodies. Photos of Dachau, its gas chambers, and the crematorium are posted in the photo section of the website.
It was a sobering drive back to the hotel that morning…
We took some time touring the local museums, some beautiful churches, and an open air farmer’s market that had some beautiful produce, fresh pasta, peppers, meat and fish. There was live music and people were starting to break out their traditional Bavarian garb. We had some awesome Dunkle Weisen beer, and some great bratwurst. To finish up the day we had a wonderfully romantic, gourmet dinner at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, German food with a French flair.
The next morning we checked out, and made our way over to the Residence Museum. It was home to Ludwig II, but had its most growth under the reign of Duke Albrecht. The Albrecht name is where half of my family is from. Apparently we were descendants of the Duke before my family made a departure from Germany to Oregon within the U.S.A. This was the most beautiful building that we saw in Germany. Unfortunately, most of the museum was a recreation because the palace was mostly destroyed by Allied bombing during the Second World War.
We hopped back into the car, and made our way into the Bavarian Alps. We took a two hour drive to Castle Neuschwanstein, the castle that Disney based its design off of. We took a horse drawn carriage ride to the castle and had a wonderful tour of its grounds. It is a really magical place, but it was nothing compared to what we were about to see. Our drive took us just 30 km south east to the town of Mittenwald – the town of a thousand violins. The Alps burst from the ground, much as they do in Banff, but the peaks were extremely jagged and snow capped. We were blessed with a beautiful sunset and then we checked into the Post Hotel.
The Post Hotel is famous within the Bavarian Alps for its beauty and hospitality. Rena and I had a wonderful dinner -Beef Stroganoff and Wiener Schnitzel. The town is famous for a beautiful church, established in 1749, its violin craftsmen, its wood craftsmen, and its beer. I was able to taste test most of the local beers and we collapsed into a feather bed overlooking the majestic Alps. It was a dream.
The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we toured the quaint little town, had some wonderful Gelato, and window shopped throughout the many local stores. Unfortunately we not able to purchase much because most of the shops are closed from noon until 3 p.m. and we needed to get back on the road to Heidelberg. I had a full day of meetings in the morning. We were blessed with being able to make the most out of the drive home. We travelled south along the Germany-Austria border, then to the Germany – Switzerland border, passing into Switzerland and finally back to Heidelberg. It was a long, but beautiful drive through some gorgeous mountain passes.
The scary thing is my team and I spent the majority of the next day in meetings at Rammstein Air Force Base attending to customer calls. Rena and I left and made the drive to Frankfurt. We had the luck of stopping at Frankenstein’s Castle, home of many rumors and legends. Frankfurt is the home of Germany’s financial district and is a major metro area. We did get to see the Romer, an area of timber homes and restaurants. Back to my original point though, Rena and I were flying out of Frankfurt International Airport back to Washington D.C. and after spending the prior day at Rammstein for work, I was hit with the news that a major terror ring was thwarted in Germany. The plans were to use German nationals to bomb Frankfurt International Airport and Rammstein Air Force Base. WOW!!! Thank God that we dodged that bullet and those men were apprehended before any terrorism occurred.
We very much enjoyed Germany, the people and its history. France it is not, but to each his own. I will b e back in Germany again at the end of the month. I will keep you posted. Safe travels…